Wow. Where to begin.
Before stumbling onto NTH, I had spent months looking into all sorts of Diver's watches, from Seiko to Tissot, to pretty much every known microbrand out there. I knew what I wanted, a Diver with 200-300m water resistance, a classic size stainless case, a reliable automatic movement (it didn't have to be Swiss) and a flat Sapphire crystal (I can't stand watches with a bulge). Most of all, I wanted a watch that wouldn't have people think "that guy's wearing a fake rolex". In this sense, NTH was a breath of fresh air, they aren't hommages to a single watch, like countless Subby hommages out there, but rather celebrate a style and era of watchmaking. In this case, vintage divers.
The case is absolutely sublime and what I consider the grail of dimensions for smaller wrists: 40 by 48mm. The finishing is arguably better than my Tissot and up to par with watches twice the price. The lines are absolutely sublime, the stroke of polishing that goes along the case on either side contrasts beautifully with the brushed steel, and I often find myself admiring it. Lastly, the thickness, or thinness, rather. At 11.5mm, the height of the case isn't just a spec but a feature - and certainly appreciated as someone who often wears dress shirts.
The dial is beautifully simple. It has just the right amount of text (*cough cough Rolex*), the date is perfectly located, and the handset is one of my all time favourites. I also very much appreciate NTH not going with snowflake or mercedes hands, like lesser microbrands tend to. The leaf and sword obviously have that original milsub look - though only true connoisseurs will notice - but the contrasting black and gold also have a bit of that Black Bay feel. Finally, the lume is indeed what it's hyped up to be, no wonder NTH throws in a UV flashlight for you to play with.
The bezel is remarkable. 120-clicks, of course, with evenly applied off-white lume that gives the watch a radium-era, vintage feel. It is of course perfectly centred - my OCD would have driven me crazy - has an incredibly sturdy action and no play. I mean it. There simply isn't any backplay. I also think the aluminium insert was the right choice, as the very light brushing and matte finish certainly works better with the vintage look of the watch than shiny ceramic would have.
The bracelet first stood out to me, when unboxing the watch, as very light and articulable. And indeed, it is far more comfortable, and feels better made than my Tissot bracelet. Do take note that the links are kept together by screw-down pins, so you will need a 1mm screwdriver to adjust the watch. The milled clasp is superbly machined, feels solid, offers 6 microadjustments and has a satisfying click when closed.
This section of my review could do with some updating in the future but here are my thought after just a few days of having the watch on the wrist. First of all, the Miyota's sweep is gorgeous. I will note unscrewing the crown to operate the movement is a little scary at first, but the crown loosens over time as the oil gets distributed more evenly. The crown can still be quite difficult to unscrew and screw back down - you will have to take the watch off to set the time or wind it up. Aside from that, there is nothing to report, the Miyota is a sturdy, reliable, hand-winding, seconds-hacking movement, and I feel better knowing if I ever have any trouble (past NTH's 6-year warranty), service will be far cheaper than on an ETA.
As for accuracy, when wearing this watch daily, it is running (easily) within +3/-3 seconds a day. Again, it just hasn't been long enough for me to properly measure this on a phone app. Hopefully other reviews will help.
If you're on the fence, I hope this review helps you out. This watch is a joy to wear, discrete yet stylish, and oh so tasteful. With a solid bracelet, sapphire crystal, accurate movement and 300 metres water resistance, I intend to wear it daily for both work and play - including lots of swimming.
One last note to the wonderful people at Serious Watches: I ordered this watch amidst a global pandemic and still received it here in France, in only 2 days. I emailed Mark back and forth before deciding to pull the trigger and he was a big help, friendly, professional and always at your service. The added extras in the package also make this watch a joy to unbox - whenever you receive it, it will feel like Christmas guaranteed.